Is it worth it for sneaker resellers to keep stocking Yeezys? The secondary market for sneakers anticipates what’s next after the Adidas split

Adidas’ decision to dissolve its partnership with rapper Ye put many eyes on resellers and the secondary market. After the sports retail giant ordered the removal of all of his Yeezy products from shelves, some believed consumers would flock to reseller sites, which would be in position to take advantage of new demand.

The cliché of “supply and demand” may seem applicable. Traditional retailers are purging their supply after Ye’s statements about slavery, a Black Vogue editor, Adidas, and Jewish people, so resellers would see increased demand. While online resellers did see an initial uptick in Yeezy purchases, retail insiders don’t believe it will last.

The host of the Sockjig Sneaker Podcast, who asked not to be identified by his legal name, said he isn’t sure if that initial boost will hold up long term. “Prices [likely] went up because Christmas is coming right around the corner,” he said. “People think, ‘I’ve always wanted that shoe. They’re not going to make it anymore, so I’ll buy it [off of a resale site] now.’ ”

Over the years, Adidas and Ye worked to ensure retailers had enough product for people who could afford Yeezy products, Sockjig said. It could take a few months before the requisite scarcity, which tends to create value for resellers, pays off. “Adidas wasn’t shy about not making [their sneakers] superlimited,” he said. “And even the limited products were recently restocked.”

Christopher Burns is the founder of ARCH (arch+research, culture-hype) and a sneaker analyst who has written two books about sneaker retail. He said the spike in online Yeezy sales doesn’t tell the whole story.

“Here’s the thing: Adidas didn’t do a real restock on certain models like the Yeezy 350 Zebra or the 750s,” he said. “The Turtle Doves … those are the models that will still garner a high return for resellers. But the newer sneakers? They flatlined.” Burns noted that the products leading for online retailers are specific models. Still, the overall shift many were championing as indicative of a trend isn’t sustainable.

“I did research on the numbers after the initial peak on Tuesday, and it was clear that within two to three days, Yeezy was either back to normal levels or dropping,” he said. “As a matter of fact, the only products generating significant returns over the last year on secondary sites were Yeezy Foam Runners and slides. So, what are your top 10 shoes in the last three days?”

The online secondary market typically operates through sites such as StockX and GOAT. Shoppers looking for a brick-and-mortar store or something in the neighborhood can head to consignment shops. These shops let sellers peddle used or deadstock sneakers (authentic, unworn sneakers that are usually no longer available from direct retailers) coveted by buyers.

Leo Montalvan, the owner of Headquarters NY inside the Palisades Center in West Nyack, New York, said Yeezy sales made up 30% of his business. He hasn’t seen any significant shifts in Yeezy-brand prices or demand. “It’s the same,” Montalvan said. “I was looking at my numbers for the last month and talking with some friends about it. I don’t see any difference, you know.”

Chap Moody and Brian Heath, co-owners of Diplomatic 1750 in Chicago, echoed those sentiments. “Sales have been steady,” Moody said. Heath agreed with his business partner that any shifts coming after Adidas dissolved its partnership with Yeezy weren’t felt. They don’t expect a change in demand, either, evidenced by what happened after Ye donned a “White Lives Matter” shirt and his appearance on the Drink Champs podcast.

“I still see people coming in wearing Yeezys, people asking to buy Yeezys,” Heath said. “We had a customer that called in wanting to return a pair.” Moody said she received the shoes as a gift, and expressed a desire to return them due to Ye’s antisemitism. 

However, some customers don’t seem to mind.

“I actually took a picture of a guy today that had on the [Yeezy-brand] rubber Balenciaga boots, the Gap pants, the Balenciaga Gap shirt, and the hat,” Moody said. “That happened in the store. Today.”

There could be another factor down the line that affects Yeezy resellers: Adidas’ own creations. According to a Bloomberg report, the German company may rebrand all Yeezy designs under the Adidas brand beginning in 2023.

“I read the statement they wrote,” said Dejan Pralica, who co-founded SoleSavy, a subscription-based community where members can use SoleSavy’s services to purchase sneakers. Pralica thinks Adidas will continue to make Ye’s shoes without him at the forefront.

“They’re saying they own the IP, and we are the owners of the copyrights and designs. I fully expected the Adidas Yeezy Boost 350 to drop in whatever time they decide is ample enough to make the transition.”

Montalvan thinks it would be a bad idea. He’s a big fan of the technology in the sneakers, calling the Adidas Yeezy 350 Boost “one of the most comfortable shoes on the market.” But, their chances for popularity without the Yeezy name at the forefront?

“I don’t think [the shoe] leads the charge anymore,” he stated.

Pralica agreed but believed Adidas had a path forward. “If they lower the price, they make it $160. And it’s good and comfortable. It’s the same as an Adidas Ultra Boost and Adidas NMD. But there’s no way you can expect to do a billion in revenue,” he said.

Resellers then might find themselves with a problem. Yeezy-brand shoes are easy to find and purchase. Adidas may also, to some lesser degree, continue the line. It won’t have the same branding, but it’s not ideal for the secondary market. Pralica said reselling eventually comes down to who will ultimately end up wearing the sneaker.

“It’s not the status symbol it was five years ago,” he said. “[The shoe] has lost its allure. It’s probably somewhat tied to Ye saying outlandish things, but we’ve been progressing here for a while. I think old models outside of maybe a few key colorways or even the new Adidas version they make will be fine. But I don’t think the Yeezys have a place as a result.” 

One might have difficulty conceptualizing that Ye remains someone with enough cultural cachet to lead any charge. Some supporters don’t see a conflict in buying, wearing, or further supporting Ye’s merchandise business, despite his recent actions. Others point out that companies were mainly silent on his actions when they primarily targeted Black people.

After Ye’s antisemitic remarks, Foot Locker removed his sneakers from shelves. Hibbett Sports did the same. Skechers issued a statement after Ye showed up to their offices unannounced and was removed by security. But many companies remained partnered with him after multiple years of anti-Black comments.

Regardless, Ye’s latest tirade didn’t just prompt reaction from traditional retailers. Resale sites are moving as well.

While StockX and GOAT still list hundreds, if not thousands, of pairs of Yeezy-branded shoes, platforms such as Rebag and Fashionphile agreed not to sell Ye’s products. The RealReal said it will no longer accept new listings for “any items associated with Kanye West, or his brand, including Yeezy, and Yeezy x Adidas.” The luxury consignment shop said items on the site will remain there “out of fairness.”

Resellers and consumers find themselves at a crossroads. 

“I have six pairs of Yeezys in my collection. I don’t plan to sell any of them, but I’m also not going to step out of my house wearing them,” said Pralica. He grew up on Ye and had intensely personal memories attached to his sneakers. “I got engaged in my [Adidas] 350 Pirate Blacks. My sneakerhead memories are in those shoes.” 

The Sole Savy co-founder doesn’t excuse Ye’s behavior and said he doesn’t feel “all that great” about wearing Yeezy sneaks in public. For now, he treats them more like collector’s pieces. “My money’s already spent,” he said. “Whether I sell it, wear it, or don’t, it’s something I’ll deal with.”

Montalvan has similar feelings regarding selling the shoe. While it is a large part of his business, it still presents a moral quandary. 

“I’ve definitely been weighing if I’m going to pull the shoes or not,” he said. “I just don’t know.”