2024 in sneakers: Trends and stories that captured our attention
In 2024, sneakers reflected most aspects of life, from music to television and social media. Things were fractured and segmented, and everyone’s experience differed depending on their interests.
While big-name releases felt scarce, niche audiences were spoiled for choice. For every retro comeback, a fresh silhouette emerged. Basketball sneakers returned, reclaiming relevance with a rise in signature models, particularly for women. Black collaborators continued to make their mark with major brands, earning acclaim. None cast a larger shadow than Nike and Jordan Brand’s golden child, Travis Scott. The resell market cooled, turning missed releases into attainable hits without breaking the bank. And despite the unrelenting flood of releases, the year proved that the sneaker game thrives in its abundance.
We couldn’t capture every great story or release, but here are the highlights that left a lasting impression.
The Adidas AE1 is Rookie of the Year
David Sherman/NBAE via Getty Images
This time last year, we anointed Minnesota Timberwolves star Anthony Edwards as the next marquee headliner of an NBA signature shoe, just a few weeks after the release of his debut model, the Adidas AE 1, on Dec. 16, 2023.
In the shoe’s first commercial, Edwards said he thought he had the best shoe in basketball. Edwards’ raw, infectious personality, which has been used to market the AE 1, set the tone for what’s ultimately been transformed into one of the greatest and longest runs for a sneaker in basketball history.
On Nov. 21, Complex named the Adidas AE 1 as its 2024 sneaker of the year, marking the first performance basketball model in the past decade to earn the platform’s annual distinction. That’s because the AE 1 has delivered features such as a mid- and low-top silhouette designed in more than 20 colorways, which Edwards wore during his first career All-NBA season and while playing on the USA Basketball team, which won a gold medal at the 2024 Paris Games.
The best part of the AE 1’s rollout has been the series of ads Adidas has unveiled starring Edwards. In a spot that dropped on the opening night of the 2024-25 NBA season, Edwards sits down to take a lie detector test, notably asked by the proctor, “Are the AE 1s the best shoe in the game?” Edwards quickly responds, “No question,” which triggers a green light on the machine, indicating that he ain’t lying. In only a year’s time, the AE 1 has more than proven itself to be just that good of a shoe. — Aaron Dodson
The return of Prime Time
When former NFL player Deion Sanders took over as coach of the Colorado Buffaloes football program last year, many people wondered what would happen between him and Nike, the apparel and gear sponsor for Colorado, given their relationship at the time. The answer? Not only did they make amends, but they decided to bring back Sanders’ Air Diamond Turf line. The Diamond Turf Max returned in cleated and non-cleated versions, including the original white and black colorway.
Besides Sanders returning to the fold, Nike also signed Sanders’ son Shedeur to an NIL deal, making him the first football NIL athlete signed by the swoosh. Nike and Shedeur Sanders wasted little time making an impact by releasing a Colorado-themed pair of the Sanders’ Diamond Turf Max, also in cleated and non-cleated versions. What is undoubtedly a testament to Sanders’ star power is that he is the only college athlete to be featured on Nike Football’s official Instagram account, appearing in four different posts.
If Sanders’ social media pages are an indicator of things to come, there should be little doubt that Boulder, Colorado, will continue to be the talk of the college football world. Pair that with what Shedeur Sanders has accomplished during his two years with the Buffaloes and his projected top-five pick status in the upcoming NFL draft, and it’s a safe bet that both father and son will be live and in prime time for the foreseeable future. — Jacob DeLawrence
A Ma Maniére is still standing strong
After a 2023 that ended in controversy, A Ma Maniere stayed low and kept firing in 2024. The Whitaker Group, which oversees the streetwear and sneaker retail brands A Ma Maniere, Social Status, APB, and Prosper, forfeited $1.2 million to the federal government in a case that alleged international money laundering of more than $32 million, but the group was ultimately not charged with any crimes. Founder and owner James Whitner maintained his innocence and that of The Whitaker Group, which continued to release collaborations.
The “While You Were Sleeping” series of sneakers and apparel, in particular, including multiple Jordan models, a Nike Air Force 1, a Converse Weapon, an Air Max 95, and even a friends-and-family Chuck 70 (the first ever to include a Nike swoosh), was a quintessential A Ma Maniere blend of materials, styling, and storytelling. There was also an Adidas Superstar collaboration and an associated art exhibit celebrating the artistic communities of Pittsburgh and Charlotte, North Carolina. The Whitaker Group built the 13,000-square-foot APB Skatepark at The Collective in Charlotte and a resort, A-Ma Maniére Beach in Folly Beach, South Carolina. — Greg Whitt
Nike released gems from the vault
Patta
Nike has been digging in the crates and releasing rarely seen sneakers that have only been seen as discussion topics on Reddit, sold with markups of hundred percent on resale sites, or languished in the closets of sneakerheads who’ve been too timid to thaw them out and let them touch the pavement. The Patta x Nike Air Max 1 “Chlorophyll” from legendary Amsterdam outfit Patta was rereleased to celebrate the 15th anniversary of the original. The Wu-Tang Dunk, initially limited to 36 pairs in 1999, saw a wider retail release this year. Even the Huf Air Max 1 from 2004, Stash Air Force 1 and Air Max 95 were returned to store shelves.
The question for the new year is if this strategy feeds more into the idea that Nike is suffering from a lack of innovation. Nike remains a giant, but for a company that saw its sales drop for the first time in seven quarters earlier this year, it will be interesting to see if the swoosh can develop new models and technological advances in 2025.
In the meantime, prepare for the “Galaxy” Foamposite reboot in February. — Greg Whitt
Jordan Retros lost their luster
Jordan Brand
Nike’s recent earnings statement gives the impression that the Jumpman is as strong as ever. It was the only Nike division to see a year-to-year gain. However, raw numbers don’t tell the whole story of how people feel about the product. Resale platforms such as StockX and GOAT are usually a more accurate measure of how the public views a product. StockX currently has hundreds of pairs of Jordans hovering below retail.
One main reason pairs are currently below retail is quality control problems. Just last month, Nike released an updated retro of the Jordan 3 “Black Cement,” the overall response was that the shoe wasn’t up to the brand’s standards. Many pairs were misshapen, the elephant print was off, and there were many other problems for a shoe that retailed at $220. The problems with craftsmanship apply to other releases. Several other retros from this year have similar issues, all for shoes whose retail prices start around $200.
While it’s nice to be able to walk into a random shoe store and buy a Jordan retro after the release date, it’s also, unfortunately, a sign that the brand has lost its luster because five years ago, it would have been almost unimaginable to buy the latest retro at retail after launch day. —
Jacob DeLawrence
Nike has a new star-in-waiting
Michael Gonzales/NBAE via Getty Images
Though it’s yet to be officially confirmed, there’s no real question as to who will be the next NBA player to receive the signature treatment from Nike.
Victor Wembanyama, the 20-year-old 7-foot-3 forward for the San Antonio Spurs, will land a signature shoe line with the swoosh sooner than later. Nike first signed him as a teenager, a few years before he was selected as the No. 1 overall pick in the 2023 NBA draft.
In July, we examined Wemby’s first NBA season repping Nike, discovering that he laced up a reported five different shoe sizes en route to being named the 2023-24 NBA Rookie of the Year. Inspired by Wembanyama’s size and infatuation with aliens, Nike began branding him as basketball’s “Extra-Terrestrial,” and celebrated his award with the limited-edition release of his alien-themed player-exclusive Nike GT Hustle 2s.
In the lead-up to the 2024 Paris Games, Nike designed a sneaker prototype for Wembanyama made in size 21 as the brand prepares for the arrival of his first official signature shoe. — Aaron Dodson
Sabrina Ionescu’s sneakers keep showing up
Nike
New York Liberty guard Sabrina Ionescu couldn’t ask for a more dreamlike season. She helped lead her team to the franchise’s first WNBA championship and had one of the biggest buckets in playoff history. And she did it while wearing her kicks, the Nike Sabrina 2, which had its own victories this season.
We rarely see sneakers fronted by a female athlete with the crossover appeal of Ionecu’s Nike line. A whopping 60 players in the WNBA and NBA laced up the shoe, and most of them were men. The trickle-down effect is real, as the shoe appeared on college courts, and even high school phenom A.J. Dybantsa has worn them. Most wearers adopt the shoe due to its similar design and performance, which are associated with models from Nike’s Kobe Bryant line. But while Bryant’s shoes can be hard to come by and go big bucks, the Sabrina 2 is widely available and comes in an array of colors.
Another stellar year for Travis Scott
Nathaniel S. Butler/NBAE via Getty Images
Rapper Travis Scott sold out everything from football arenas to multiple shoe models this year.
Scott has had wins this year with his low-top Air Jordan 1 releases. His low-top Air Jordan 1s, famous for the reverse swoosh logo, continue to dominate the secondary market. The Air Jordan 1 Low “Olive” colorway was one of eBay’s top five-selling shoes of 2024, and it resells for up to $2,000. The rapper even hit the jackpot with women’s shoes. The Air Jordan 1 Retro Low OG SP “Canary” arrived in women’s sizing and sold out instantly.
He wasn’t limited solely to retro products. Scott was behind two new models, Jordan Jumpman Jack TR and Zoom Field Jaxx, that were introduced this year. And his halo effect isn’t limited to the shoes bearing his name. He lent visibility to several other collaborator projects, such as the special project release for the Nike Mac Attack sneaker, a new rendition of the tennis great John McEnroe’s namesake shoe.
Scott’s continued diamond-certified music heights, creation of CactusCon, and ventures such as the rebranding of CACTI Park of the Palm Beaches in collaboration with the Houston Astros and the Washington Nationals and the Cactus Jack Foundation HBCU Celebrity Softball Classic have all aided his continued sneaker success. In April 2025, the 33-year-old will headline Coachella 2025 for both weekends in Indio, California. It’s all but given what’s on his feet will garner as much attention as what songs he plays on stage. — Alexis Davis
Stephen Curry picks his successor
Curry Brand
For the past decade, Golden State Warriors guard Stephen Curry has made Under Armour a brand that people mention when it comes to basketball shoes. Most of Curry’s basketball accomplishments have come while wearing one of his many signature Under Armour shoes.
However, if you asked any basketball fan to name someone signed by Under Armour who is not named Stephen Curry, you might not get an answer. UA needs to find a successor for the 36-year-old Curry sooner rather than later.
Now, all signs point towards Sacramento Kings star De’Aaron Fox as the chosen one.
Curry Brand, the Under Armour subsidiary helmed by Curry, signed Fox to a shoe deal in 2023. A year later, Fox already has a signature shoe, the Curry Fox 1. The company has already put a solid promotional push behind Fox and his shoe by posting short ads and showcasing Fox returning to his old high school to give out pairs to the school’s basketball team. Only time will tell if he can help the brand build on the foundation Curry created. — Jacob DeLawrence
The year of the Samba
Adidas
It’s something about a white-and-black shoe that gets people going. The Adidas Samba is the company’s second-highest seller and one of its oldest models. Where the Nike Panda Dunks were popular once, the Samba OG has taken over.
The Samba OG model is available online and in stores, and the $100 retail price is affordable. The classic color combo has been in high demand recently and the model’s popularity has risen for the last several years, thanks to key collaborations with the likes of reggaeton star Bad Bunny, athleisure brand Sporty & Rich and luxury label Wales Bonner, which has a silver colorway that resells for over $2,000.
Many TikTok influencers have deemed it the perfect shoe for sneaker enthusiasts, kids and moms and have customized them, adding ribbons as laces and trading pins to the tongue. Consumers can customize their Sambas with initials and symbols at the Adidas flagship store in New York City.
After 75 years, the Samba is here to stay. — Alexis Davis
Jae Tips owns the spotlight
Rapper and designer Jae Tips made a big splash in May 2023 with his first Saucony collaborations, the “Remember Who Fronted” Saucony Grid Azura 2000 and its December Grid Shadow 2 follow-up, but 2024 was more akin to a tsunami.
The native of the Bronx borough of New York dug even deeper into the Saucony archives, collaborating on the Matrix model, which hadn’t been released since 2000, the ProGrid Omni 9 and Shadow 6000 as part of his four-sneaker “To Do List” pack. His work with Saucony is more evidence of what can happen when brands give creatives access and freedom.
Speaking of access, The Flygod himself, fellow rapper and creative Westside Gunn, credited Jae Tips with “opening the door” and inspiring him as he begins his own collaboration with the century-old running brand. — Greg Whitt
The rookie and the vet have next
Melissa Tamez/Icon Sportswire via Getty Images
By signing with Reebok, Reese became the brand’s face of women’s basketball, capped with her Reebok by Angel collection. Before the release of her signature shoe in 2026, Reese, who is the WNBA’s single-season rebound record-holder, helped Reebok design its first basketball sneaker since the 2010s, the Engine A.
After months of speculation, Wilson, the original double-double queen and Nike announced that the three-time WNBA MVP indeed has a signature shoe coming in 2025 with the A’One. The two-time WNBA champion recently signed a six-year contract extension with Nike, which is reportedly worth more than $20 million.
Before Reese and Wilson, there was and still is Candace Parker. A Black woman has not headlined a signature shoe since Parker wore her signature Adidas in 2010. Since over 60% of the women in the WNBA are Black, the endorsements and leadership opportunities are beginning to reflect their numbers. Parker announced her retirement in April and moved to the C-suite when she became president of women’s basketball at Adidas in May. — Alexis Davis
Players expand brand choices
Stephen Gosling/NBAE via Getty Images
“Change” best describes the state of signature sneaker deals in the NBA. While many athletes are still signing with heavyweight footwear brands such as Jordan, Nike, Under Armour, and Adidas, the enormous appeal and go-to it once was no longer there. Philadelphia 76ers center Joel Embiid, Denver Nuggets center Nikola Jokić, and Dallas Mavericks guard Kyrie Irving left sponsors such as Under Armour and Nike over the past two seasons and ended up with non-traditional brands such as Skechers (Embiid), 361 Degrees (Jokic), and Anta (Irving).
While this may seem like a sudden shift, there have been signs for the past decade. Pros such as Mavericks guard Klay Thompson and former NBA player Dwyane Wade left the traditional brands, and now their signature lines are in the double digits. Athletes are realizing they have more power and reach than previous generations did. It’s no longer about signing with a brand you grew up loving. It’s about being a key face for a brand trying to gain market share.
“It wasn’t about what they were offering,” Irving said of his decision to sign with Anta. “It was all about whether I was free to create what I want and also be part of the engine that’s going to build this big machine.” Others, such as Boston Celtics forward Jaylen Brown and Cleveland Cavaliers forward Isaac Okoro, cited ownership and the beauty of independence as key draws.
Whatever the reasons, more players are exploring other options, giving signature sneakers more variety than they’ve had in decades. — Jacob DeLawrence
Wales Bonner is the best-kept secret in sneakers
Pascal Le Segretain/Getty Images
Wales Bonner may be Adidas’ secret weapon when it comes to creating halo products that move the needle.
Founded by designer Grace Wales Bonner, the luxury fashion brand has an opinion and the ability to showcase it through products. Bonner has a thoughtful approach to athletic footwear and apparel, mixing an air of regalness with cultural heritage to separate her brand from most sneaker collaborators.
When Adidas prioritized the Samba several years ago, Wales Bonner was an early partner who helped elevate the model and set the trend in motion. This year’s Samba Classic between the two partners was a work of art with its bright hues and crocodile-printed leather. They also added tailoring and elevated materials to Adidas tracksuits, transforming them from sportswear to camera-ready tunnel outfits.
The Samba Classic barely nudged out another one of Wales Bonner’s gems, the Adizero Adios Neftenga. This performance runner never made it past the prototype stage- but it was worn by Ethiopian runner Haile Gebrselassie when he won the Berlin Marathon in 2008. Wales Bonner’s Adios Neftenga for 2024 received minor changes, such as suede overlays and co-branding elements. How Wales Bonner unearthed the shoe from Adidas’ extensive archives remains a mystery. Yet, that’s part of the allure because, like a good magic trick, some things are meant to be marveled at instead of explained. — John Gotty